We do all of our motor work in house. We start off by matching up the two sides of the engine cases and perform all of the necessary machining operations including line reaming the pinion and cam bushings, then we line lap the cases.
Next is the flywheel assembly, we replace the crankpin thrust washers, balance the individual wheels fit the crank-pin bearings to the re-built rods and true the whole assembly to with in .001 run out.
Then we fit the main bearings, set up the endplay, and put the cases together. Next we blue print the oil pump and install it on the cases.
After the oil pump we move on to the cam chest, we install and shim the cam and fit the circuit breaker and idler gears to the shafts.
Next we replace the tappet rollers, and install the tappet blocks onto the motor.
We fit the rings to the freshly bored and (torque plated) precision honed cylinders.
We match the connecting rods to the cylinder decks and install the coated pistons (moly on the skirts, ceramic on the crown) to the connecting rods.
We start off by stripping the heads down to bare castings, then we thoroughly and carefully inspect them for cracks chipped or broken fins, stripped threads, and anything else that requires attention.
After all of the flaws have been repaired, we install new valve guides and seats in the head.
Now we fit the valves to the guides by using a valve guide hone and plug gauges.
Next we perform a three-angle valve job while setting the proper valve stem protrusion for proper rocker arm geometry.
Once these critical dimensions have been obtained we install the valves in the heads.
During this process we re-surface the rocker arm pad that comes in contact with the valve stem and replace any pushrod balls that are worn beyond the boundaries of factory tolerances.
On knuckleheads extra attention to detail is spent on fitting the upper and lower tins.
First we repair any cracks, then we clean out the oil return lines and then we straighten the lower tins on a special jig.
Now that the tins are fitted to each other we can paint the lowers and parkerize the top tins.
After some careful fitting, the knuckleheads are ready to be assembled.
On panheads we've found that it is crucial to refurbish the bore of the rocker blocks by surfacing the top and bottom halves of the assembly.
Then we bolt them together and precision hone them for proper clearance.
We resurface the valve stem pads and the push rod sockets.
We machine the valve stems and lower keepers for shovelhead valve seals. This reduces oil consumption and makes the engine operate in a more efficient manner.
It is of the utmost importance to have an airtight seal on the intake system of your engine. The plumber intake manifold is a very well designed sealing system, however over time and heat cycling the insert can develop leaks. These leaks, which happen between the head casting and the threaded insert, have to be addressed in order for your motor to perform at its peak. First we pressure test the insert-to-head seal, and repair as necessary.
Now that the inserts are sealed, we move onto the intake manifold. First we reform the seal surface by pressing plugs inside the holes, and then we machine a new sealing surface.
Now we machine up new seals out of a high tech material called PEEK, which is gas, oil, and heat resistant. Then we surface the carburetor face of the manifold.
The linkert carburetor was a well-designed and popular carburetor for both Harleys and Indians.
We start with resurfacing the mounting flange of the body. Now we install throttle shaft bushings and line ream them to fit the new throttle shaft.
Then we fit the venturi and install the correct fuel nozzle.
Now we assemble the rest of the correctly plated parts to the nickel or painted body. We make sure that the needle and seat are sealing.
Finally we install and adjust the carburetor float. We use a high tech floats in all of our motors that is machined out of a closed cell foam that is impervious to modern gas additives.
We pay as much attention to the transmission as we do the motor. We start out by disassembling, cleaning and inspecting all of the parts.
We install and line hone new races and bushings. We fit new bearings to the main drive gear. We assemble the complete transmission with all new bushings and bearings, and set up the correct countershaft and third gear endplay.
Next come the shifting forks, we check them for straightness and wear. Now we time them to the shifting drum to insure a smooth shifting transmission.
Now we move onto the kicker cover and gears. We install new bushings in the cover, and line-hone them to fit the kicker arm.
Now we install the kicker gears on the main-shaft, making sure the bushings and dogs are in tolerance. Finally we install the powder painted kicker arm and spring to the cover and bolt it up to the case.
We have all of the jigs and fixtures to straighten and align frames and forks for all models and years. We have been doing our own frame alignment for over fifteen years and have many satisfied customers nationwide.
We align all of our forks and frames off of a center line to insure that the bike will not only go together easily during the assembly stage but also ride down the road with ease.
We have not run across a frame that we cannot repair; from simple straightening to neck replacement we're capable of doing it all.
We have all the necessary machine tools in house to fix or repair any damaged or broken part that we run across during the restoration process. Some of the services we provide include, machining miss-matched cases to work together, machining and or replacing motor mounts, decking cylinders, machining out OHV breathers, fin repair, transmission side-cover thread replacement, and pretty much anything else a bike could need.